Gamepad Tester
Click buttons or drag sticks to test in demo mode
🖱️ Demo Mode Active
Click buttons or drag sticks to test
Controller Connected
All inputs are being monitored
Controller Layout
💡 Interactive Controller: Click any button or drag the analog sticks in demo mode!
Button Details
Left Stick
X: 0.00
Y: 0.00
Right Stick
X: 0.00
Y: 0.00
Triggers & Shoulders
Value: 0.00
Value: 0.00
📖 How This Tool Works
🎮 What Is This Tool?
Got a controller that feels off? This'll help you test it. Every button, both sticks, all the triggers - you can check them all here.
Maybe something's not responding right, or you're just curious how your gamepad reads inputs. Either way, you'll see everything happen in real-time.
🖱️ Demo Mode (Mouse Testing)
No controller nearby? No worries. It starts in demo mode so you can try everything with just your mouse.
Click any button on the screen and it lights up blue, same as if you'd pressed a real one.
Drag the analog sticks by clicking in those circular areas and moving your mouse around. The position updates instantly with exact coordinates.
Click the trigger bars wherever you want - left side for light pressure, right side for full pull.
🎯 What Each Button Does
Face Buttons (A/✕, B/○, X/□, Y/△)
Your main four buttons on the right side. A (or Cross) is usually confirm or jump. B (Circle) is cancel or back most of the time.
X (Square) handles reload or special attacks in a lot of games. Y (Triangle) does context stuff and weapon switching.
You'll press these more than any other buttons. They're your bread and butter.
Shoulder Buttons (L1/LB, R1/RB)
These sit on top where your index fingers naturally rest. L1 or LB is often for blocking, aiming, that sort of thing.
R1 or RB usually shoots, attacks, or interacts with stuff. Nice part is you can hit them without moving your thumbs off the sticks.
Analog Triggers (L2/LT, R2/RT)
These are below the shoulder buttons and they actually feel how hard you're squeezing. L2 or LT is your typical aim-down-sights or brake button.
R2 or RT does shooting or accelerating. Unlike regular buttons, these sense the pressure anywhere from barely touching to full squeeze.
That's why racing feels natural - you can feather the throttle instead of just on/off. Same deal with precise shooting.
D-Pad (D-Up, D-Down, D-Left, D-Right)
That's the cross-shaped thing on the left. Each direction is its own button.
These days it's mostly for weapon selection, item switching, menu stuff. In fighting games though? Super important for pulling off special moves.
Some people swear by it for 2D games and platformers. More precise than analog sticks, no drift to worry about.
Stick Clicks (L3, R3)
You activate these by pushing down on the analog sticks themselves. Kind of a hidden button.
L3 on the left is usually sprint or crouch in shooters. R3 is often melee or camera toggle.
Handy because you don't have to take your thumbs off the sticks to use them. Keep moving and looking around while you click.
System Buttons (Select, Start, Home)
Select (or Back, or Share depending on your controller) usually opens secondary menus or activates screenshot stuff on PlayStation.
Start (or Options, or Menu) pauses the game and brings up the main menu. Your go-to for settings and saving.
Home button - that's the one with the console logo. Takes you to the system dashboard without closing your game.
🕹️ Testing the Analog Sticks
See those circles with blue dots? That's showing your stick movement in real-time. Move the stick and watch the dot follow.
The X and Y numbers below each stick go from -1 to 1. Shows you the exact position - useful for spotting problems.
Drift Warning: If you see a yellow alert when the stick's at rest, that means it's not centering properly. Classic sign of stick drift.
Stick drift's annoying - your character walks on their own, your aim pulls to one side. Happens when controllers get worn out and stop returning to center perfectly.
🎚️ Testing Triggers
Those horizontal bars? They fill up when you press the triggers. Number underneath tells you the pressure from 0 to 1.
Modern triggers aren't just on/off - they know how hard you're squeezing. The bar shows this pressure level.
Matters a lot in racing and shooting games. You want smooth response across the whole pull, no sticky spots or dead zones where nothing happens.
🔌 Connecting Your Controller
Want to test your actual controller? Just plug it in via USB or connect through Bluetooth. Most controllers work right away, no drivers needed.
Press any button once it's connected. The tool picks it up automatically and switches out of demo mode.
You'll see your controller's name pop up at the top, then every input shows up as you use it.
Disconnect it and the tool goes back to demo mode. Handy if you want to compare or just mess around without a physical controller.
✨ What Controllers Work?
Pretty much all of them. Xbox, PlayStation (DualShock and DualSense), Nintendo Switch Pro, generic USB pads - if it's a standard game controller, it'll work.
Browsers have built-in gamepad support now. If your controller works on your computer, it'll work here.
🔧 If Something's Not Working
Controller not showing up? Try unplugging and plugging it back in. For wireless, press the PS or Xbox button to wake it up.
Your browser needs to be fairly recent - Chrome, Firefox, Edge, and Safari all support gamepads well if they're updated.
Buttons acting weird or sticks reading wrong? Might need calibration in your system settings. Or could be hardware wearing out, which usually means it's repair or replacement time.